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Chefs in My Kitchen

Maili’s Orzo Arugula Salad

Thursday, July 29th, 2010

I first met Maili Halme Brocke (http://www.themailifiles.blogspot.com) five years back when we took a cooking class together in Montecito. You know when you meet someone and you feel connected to them instantly? That’s how it is with Maili. Watching her snap photos and contribute her two cents about the recipes demonstrated, my petite food groupie heart was aflutter. I quickly progressed from thinking, “This girl knows what she is talking about,” to inviting Maili to lunch at my house so we could talk non-stop about all things “food.”

Maili is owner and executive chef of Maili Productions, a catering and event planning company here in Santa Barbara. Her celebrity clientele sing her praises, as do most people who are lucky enough to know her and eat her food. When I started my blog last year I knew I wanted to feature Maili as one of the Chefs in My Kitchen. Our focus for her class: create recipes fresh from the garden that would be perfect for entertaining.

On the day of the class she arrived armed with bound recipe books filled with summer garden recipes and information for all in attendance. All eight of us picked produce from my garden (full disclosure — with wine glasses in hand), then we watched and learned as Maili created a simply spectacular orzo salad, arugula salad with truffle oil and Marcona almonds, cold peach soup, stuffed squash and basil blossoms and a savory plum sauce. What better way to spend a summer afternoon … perched around the kitchen island with friends, hearing great tips, fun stories, lapping up her tasty concoctions, and, of course, a little mid-day wine tasting.

Here is the first of the many recipes we enjoyed in my kitchen. It’s so good I almost ate the whole plate before I remembered to take a picture.

Maili says that this recipe is very forgiving. You can toss in whatever you want, in whatever amounts, but the most important ingredient is the sautéed onions. They’re chunky and cooked for 15 to 20 minutes until translucent. The original recipe was developed by Maili’s friend Narisha, who prepared it to accompany roast chicken. Narisha used just five ingredients: orzo, Meyer lemons, arugula, capers and Parmesan cheese. Maili adds a few more.

Maili’s Orzo Arugula Salad

1 one-pound box of orzo

1 large yellow onion

1/3 cup olive oil

Pinch of salt for the onion

1 7-ounce bag of baby arugula (spinach can be substituted)

2 cups sugar plum tomatoes (or grape tomatoes or cherry tomatoes), cut in half

1 cup (about five ounces) feta cheese, crumbled (Parmesan is an excellent substitution)

1 cup pine nuts, toasted (can substitute Marcona almonds), nuts are optional

2-3 tablespoons capers, rinsed (optional)

1 13.75 ounce can artichoke hearts packed in water

Juice from two lemons (Meyer lemons if possible)

Minced fresh parsley, basil, and/ or mint

Salt and pepper to taste

1. While you’re getting all of your other ingredients together, cook the orzo in boiling salted water for 9 minutes. Rinse orzo until completely cool before adding other ingredients.

2. Sauté onion over medium heat in 1/3 cup olive oil. This may seem like more olive oil than you would generally use to sauté, but the extra oil will be flavored with the onion and used as the dressing for the salad. Put a pinch of salt on the onion while cooking.

3. Cook onion for 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent and sweet. (The longer you cook onions the better they are, so don’t skip this part.)

4. In the largest bowl you have, toss the warm onions with the cooled pasta. Be sure to use all the oil from the sauté pan.

5. Add the arugula, tomatoes, feta (or Parmesan), pine nuts, capers, artichoke hearts, herbs of your choice, lemon juice and sprinkle of salt and pepper. Toss to combine.

6. Serve at room temperature. Can be kept at room temperature for 6 hours. If you’re planning to wait before serving, then add the arugula as close to serving time as possible. Try not to refrigerate this salad, as it changes the texture and flavor of the pasta.

Holiday Egg Dish from Morocco

Saturday, March 20th, 2010

This is the most delicious egg dish! These ingredients might seem like unusual combinations but they are a marvel in your mouth. I can’t wait to serve it in the summer with freshly picked tomatoes from the garden. If you can get you’re your hands on some good tomatoes this spring (I just found some yummy ones at the farmers market that were grown in Palm Dessert) this would be a great starter for entertaining over Passover or Easter holidays.

Peggy showed us the technique for grating the tomatoes in our Moroccan cooking class. I had never prepared a tomato sauce this way but it opened up my eyes to many possibilities. Whether you are making this Berber Omelet or tomato sauce from any region (i.e. Mexican salsa or marinara) it is a beautiful consistency and easy to do.

Garden note: I planted my “early girl” tomatoes this week.

Berber Omelet

Serves 6 in one tagine
8 large tomatoes (grated)
5 cloves garlic (minced)
2 T parsley (chopped & mixed with cilantro)
2 T cilantro (chopped & mixed with parsley)
1 tsp ground black pepper
1 lg tsp salt
1 tsp ras al hanout
3 bay leaves
1-2 T olive oil
12 eggs (about 2 eggs/person served)

Grate the tomatoes into a large sauce pan or bottom of a tagine, Add garlic, parsley & cilantro mixture (saving a touch for garnish at the end), ground pepper, salt, ras al hanout, bay leaves and olive oil.

Cover and simmer all ingredients (on stove top or on a brazier) for about 10 minutes.

Crack the eggs one at a time directly into the tomato sauce inside the tagine. Continue to cook for another 5 minutes or so, until the eggs are cooked, but slightly runny inside.Add parsley and cilantro for garnish and serve out of the tagine.

Recipe by: Peggy Markel

Photos by: Blue Caleel

Chef Peggy Markel Q and A

Saturday, March 20th, 2010

Peggy Markel has an amazing repertoire of regional culinary expertise. Peggy lives part time in Colorado, then she travels the rest of the year to her cooking schools in Sicily, Tuscany and Morocco.  In addition to her classes, she leads culinary adventures in these regions.  Right now, Peggy is planning a sailboat excursion in the Amalfi Coast – can you thing of anything more fabulous?

I was such a lucky girl to grab a little time with Peggy, hosting her in my Santa Barbara kitchen.  She relayed a lot of comparison to Tuscany and Santa Barbara. What a delight to meet her, cook with her and spend some sunny Santa Barbara days together.  Peggy cooks from her soul and this resonates in a magical way in her creation of food and recipes. She holds high regard for cultural and seasonal fare.    We bonded over our shared love of all things beautiful, fresh and wholesome, had a lovely time cooking and even took a hike (albeit, we did take a wrong turn and had to backtrack a bit – oops, my bad!).

Peggy’s knowledge of cooking is vast  (obviously) and she is an excellent teacher, with an ease and ability to convey key elements of our process. This was my first time cooking Moroccan food and after her visit I can approach this delicious cuisine with confidence and understanding.

Below you will find the menu from the class she taught in my kitchen and a great little Q & A I did with her.

Eat:
Omar Sharif cocktail
Eggplant with cumin: served with warmed pita
Berber Omelette: Eggs in a spicy tomato sauce, cooked over fire
Kefta: Spicy Moroccan meatballs
Chicken Tagine with preserved lemons, olives and fresh coriander
Moroccan cooked salads with parsley, mint, cumin and coriander
Citrus curd with Pistachio and blood oranges.
Drink:
For drinks we started with Peggy’s Omar Sharif cocktail – yum.  Then Rudi Pichler Gruner Veltliner, Smaragd 2006 Vachau with the eggs and meatballs.   Gruner is one of the only wines that goes well with eggs and Rudi Pichler has to be the nicest guy! Austrian whites are so good with a multitude of dishes.   It also paired nicely with the chicken but most of us progressed to a fruity Barbera from Piedmonte.

Q and A with Peggy

Val: Which types of tagines are best and why?
Peggy: I like the traditional terracotta tagines as they cook the food as the
food was intended.  It is by far more authentic tasting. Emile Henry, makes a ceramic, flame proof tagine that I like a lot. It cooks well, but I find liquid doesn’t evaporate or sauces thicken with quite the same gusto as the terracotta, but things don’t stick either!  All Clad makes a cermic topped, stainless bottomed tagine that is amazing for braising.  I like it especially well for a lamb tagine with prunes and cinnamon.

Val: What inspired you to cook Moroccan food?
Peggy: Going to Morocco. I didn’t know much about Moroccan food other than having it a few times in a restaurant. The restaurant experience can be exotic and overwhelming, almost too aromatic. Yet, I must say, intriguing. Going there and tasting it in all sorts of situations gave it context.  I have taste tested tagines from the desert, the mountains, the sea, on the side of the road and in chic homes. It’s the signature common dish of the people…no matter what class. It is class distinguished by the way it is served. But not by what or how it is cooked. The simplest version over the fire of the mejmar in any case, is more delicious. The ingredient choices of the countryside are often more delicious than the city. The simplicity of the dish can offer anyone a chance to cook. The secret is in the hands.

Val: What is your favorite Moroccan dish?
Peggy: I love them all. But nothing beats a good ‘Omellette Berber’. Eggs
cracked and dropped whole in a spicy grated tomato sauce. It’s simple and satisfying and a good thing to wake up to on a sunny morning in Sidi Kaouki.

Val: What is your most favorite ingredient to use form the garden?
Peggy: Could you answer that question? It’s hard! Herbs. I love fresh lettuces and tiny tomatoes of course, but to be able to nip fresh thyme or rosemary when you need it, while it’s still fresh and aromatic is the best.
Anything green for that matter, as I love to finish a dish with something
surprising. Finely chopped this or that, or a chiffonade of shiso, meaning something unusual but complimentary.

Val: Which do you prefer; cocktail or wine with Moroccan food?
Peggy: Ok. I love gin and tonic in climates such as Morocco, Thailand and India, for example. In Marrakech they serve a lot of fruity non-alcoholic drinks that are quite good. I like one of their ginger cocktails, made with a ginger syrup, but I like vodka and lime (a Beldi lemon) as well. The cocktail which I created with a few bartenders called the Omar Sharif is fun. Kettle One Citron, pomegranate liquor, lemon, cinnamon and mint.

Chefs in My Kitchen: Peggy Markel Video

Tuesday, March 9th, 2010

When my friend, Chef Kim Schiffer, told me that Chef Peggy Markel was coming to town (Peggy has a cooking school in Morroco) I jumped at my chance to buy a Morrocan Tagine and learn from a master. Here’s a look at our recent Morrocan cooking lesson! See my recent posts Chicken Tajine with Lemons, Olives and Coriander, and Preserved Lemons for recipes and more information.

Editing and Motion Graphics by Matt Walla.

Chicken Tagine with Lemons, Olives and Coriander

Tuesday, March 9th, 2010

Chicken tagine with lemons, olives and coriander

I am one of those people that have every possible kitchen gadget, tool and utensil imaginable. One of the few things I have never bought is a tagine. Honestly, I was a little intimidated by the process. A tagine is crazy looking Morrocan cooking vessel with a lid that looks like a upside down ice cream cone. I had always thought that at the top of the lid there was a hole for steam, but it’s actually a holder for your spoon! So when Kim said that her friend Peggy Markel (http://www.peggymarkel.com) who has a cooking school in Morroco was coming to town, I jumped at my chance to finally buy a tagine and learn from a master. Peggy was just featured in Gourmet’s Adventures with Ruth (http://www.gourmet.com/magazine/2000s/2008/05/peggymarkel) and is an exceptional teacher and now, a good friend too.

Peggy Markel and Valerie

Here is Peggy’s recipe for her absolutely delicious chicken tagine with olives and coriander (cilantro). Don’t wait until you have Peggy in your kitchen to make this incredible dish. Peggy conveyed to us in the class that there are no mistakes when combining the ingredients in the tagine, so don’t let that fear keep you from creating this dish. It also lends itself exceptionally to entertaining because you basically put all of the ingredients in and walk away from the stove. Pour some drinks and have some fun while your tagine does the work.

CHICKEN TAGINE WITH LEMONS, OLIVES & CORIANDER

1 chicken, separated into drum, thigh, breast, etc.

2 onion, sliced

4 cloves garlic

A bouquet of fresh parsley and cilantro

4 T olive oil

2 t ginger powder

1/2 tsp turmeric

1 tsp ground cinnamon

A pinch of saffron

Salt and pepper to taste

2 preserved lemons

1/2 cup purple olives

Separate the chicken into pieces and coat with spices and 2T of olive oil, salt and pepper.

Cut the preserved lemons into quarters, and separate the pulp from the peel. Finely slice the peel and reserve for later use. Chop and add the lemon pulp to the chicken. In a tagine or casserole, heat 2T of oil . Add half of the sliced onions. Put the marinated chicken on top. Add the other half of the onions on top of the chicken. Add salt and pepper and the parsley and coriander bouquet garni.

Add 3/4 cup of water. Bring to a simmer and let cook for about 30-40 minutes. Check the chicken periodically with a wooden spatula to make sure it’s not sticking. Simmer until the chicken juices run clear and the meat is moist and tender.

Add the olives 10 minutes before serving. Garnish with lemon peel at the end. Serve piping hot! Tagines available from www.tagines.com <http://www.tagines.com>

Photos by Blue Caleel

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